Boats on the Ganga in front of the ghats in Varanasi

Uttar Pradesh · North India

Varanasi travel guide

One of the world's oldest living cities, where life and ritual play out on the stone steps of the Ganga. Intense, crowded, and unforgettable.

Photo: Martijn Vonk / Unsplash

Quick facts

Best time
October to March
How long
2–4 days
Daily budget
₹1,300–2,300 backpacking
Getting in
Varanasi airport (VNS) or Varanasi Junction railway station

Costs are typical per-person ranges in Indian rupees, reviewed September 2026. Check current prices and conditions before you book.

Varanasi (also Banaras or Kashi) runs along a crescent of the Ganga, lined with ghats: stone steps where people bathe, pray, do laundry, play cricket, and cremate their dead. Behind them lies a maze of lanes too narrow for cars, full of temples, sweet shops, and silk weavers.

The best way to understand the city is slowly: a boat on the river at sunrise, a walk along the ghats, and the evening Ganga aarti. Stay near the ghats rather than in the newer city so you can walk to all of it.

When to go

Best time to visit Varanasi

  • Oct–MarBest

    Pleasant days and the festival season, including Dev Deepawali, when the ghats are lit with thousands of lamps (usually November). Dense fog in December and January can delay trains and flights.

  • Apr–JunAvoid

    Very hot, often above 40°C. Explore only early morning and evening.

  • Jul–SepMixed

    Monsoon raises the river over the lower ghats, and boat rides are often suspended when the water is high.

Getting there

How to reach Varanasi

By air

Varanasi's airport at Babatpur is about 25 km from the ghats, with flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, and other cities.

By train

Varanasi Junction and Banaras stations are closest to the city; Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction, about 17 km away, has many more long-distance trains. There are fast day trains from Delhi.

By road

Buses connect Varanasi with Lucknow, Prayagraj, and Bodh Gaya. Within the old city you'll walk; autos and e-rickshaws stop at the edge of the lanes.

Budget

Varanasi trip cost per day

Typical daily cost per person in INR
Per dayBackpackerMid-range
Stay (guesthouse near the ghats)₹600–1,200₹2,500–5,000
Food₹300–600₹800–1,300
Local transport (e-rickshaw, auto)₹150–300₹600–1,200
Boats, entry and extras₹250–500₹800–1,500

Agree the price of a boat ride before you get in; shared boats are much cheaper than a private one. Street food and sweets are some of the best value in India.

Itinerary

3-day Varanasi itinerary

  1. 1

    Day 1: The ghats and the evening aarti

    Walk from Assi Ghat to Dashashwamedh Ghat along the river, then watch the evening Ganga aarti from the steps or a boat.

  2. 2

    Day 2: Sunrise boat and the old city

    A sunrise boat ride, the morning rituals on the ghats, then the lanes around Kashi Vishwanath Temple and a food walk.

  3. 3

    Day 3: Sarnath

    Half a day at Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon: the Dhamek Stupa, the ruins, and the museum (closed on Fridays). Back for a quieter evening at Assi Ghat.

Build your own version with your dates and budget

Don't miss

Top things to do in Varanasi

Ganga aarti

Priests with fire lamps and chanting at Dashashwamedh Ghat every evening.

Sunrise on the river

The ghats at their calmest, with bathers, prayers, and soft light.

Sarnath

A peaceful Buddhist site about 10 km from the city.

Banarasi food

Kachori-sabzi breakfasts, thick lassi, and malaiyyo in winter.

Before you go

Practical tips

Cremation ghats
Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats are places of mourning. Don't photograph cremations, and be wary of people who offer 'tours' and then ask for donations.
Temple security
Phones, bags, and cameras usually aren't allowed inside Kashi Vishwanath Temple; use the lockers and expect queues.
Crowds and touts
The lanes and ghats are busy and chaotic. Book your guesthouse directly and ignore unsolicited guides.

Questions

Varanasi FAQs

How many days do I need in Varanasi?

Two to three days covers the ghats, a sunrise boat, the aarti, the old city, and Sarnath without rushing.

When is the Ganga aarti in Varanasi?

Every evening around sunset at Dashashwamedh Ghat, with a smaller morning ceremony at Assi Ghat.

Is Varanasi good for budget travelers?

Yes. Guesthouses near the ghats, street food, and walking keep many travelers under ₹2,000 a day.

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